Opening

AZURITE

--:--your time

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The AZURITE watch taken apart along its axis: crystal, bezel, hands, dial, movement, case and caseback floating in order

Calibre AZ.01

Made to be looked into.

One movement, made by the house, for one case. Automatic, twenty-eight jewels, seventy-two hours. Finished on both sides because both sides can be seen.

Anatomy

The plan, from the dial side.

The dial lifts off and this is what is under it. Touch a number, or rest on one, to find the part.

Plan view of calibre AZ.01 from the dial side: the bridges, the barrel, the train, the balance and its hairspring

Rest on a partTouch a number to read what it does.

  1. 01BarrelThe mainspring, 72 hours of it, under a brushed steel drum.
  2. 02Ratchet wheelWinds the barrel from the crown or the rotor, and holds it.
  3. 03Crown wheelTurns the ratchet when you wind by hand.
  4. 04Centre wheelOne turn an hour. The minute hand rides on it.
  5. 05Third wheelBetween the centre and the fourth, quietly gearing down.
  6. 06Fourth wheelOne turn a minute. The seconds hand rides on it.
  7. 07Escape wheelFifteen teeth. Half a tooth every beat, eight beats a second.
  8. 08BalanceThe heart. It swings 240 degrees each way, four times a second.
  9. 09JewelsTwenty-eight synthetic rubies, so steel never turns on steel.
  10. 10ScrewsBlued by heat, not by paint. Slotted, and polished flat.
Macro of the calibre's bridges: Geneva stripes, a blued screw, a ruby in its polished countersink, the balance and hairspring

Finishing

Every surface answers to a name.

Geneva stripes
On the bridges. Cut wet, at one angle, so the whole movement turns with one light.
Perlage
On the mainplate. Overlapping circles, laid by hand, under the parts nobody sees.
Anglage
The bridge edges bevelled at forty-five degrees and polished to a mirror.
Blued screws
Heated to the colour and no further. Slotted, then flat-polished.
Engraved rotor
Open-worked, so it hides nothing, and engraved on its underside.

Caseback

Engraved by number.

A sapphire window, with the calibre, the water rating and the watch's own number cut into the steel around it. The number is the house's memory: it names the movement, the hands that regulated it, and the day it left.

Regulated in six positions, over fifteen days, to run within four seconds a day. Then it is cased, and then it is yours.

The exhibition caseback of the AZURITE watch, the rotor visible through the sapphire

See it run.

The movement is best understood on the wrist, at a viewing. The house brings a loupe.

Reserve a viewingThe three dials